Saturday, April 6, 2013

Jovoy's collection


I finally had the chance to try the whole collection of Jovoy's perfumes and I was incredibly happy about this brand. After Taylor got her L'enfant terrible (read post here) I was really curious to try them all. Jovoy was first launched in Paris back in 1923 by Blanche Arvoy, but in 2006 François Hénin decides to create an entire new collection, closer to modern standards. The multi-brand store in Paris holds over 60 niche brands and it is considered the embassy for niche perfumery.

Ambre Premier
It is a nice perfume. Ambery and spicy with a strong citrusy top note in the beginning. It is a clean, sweet, talc amber. As the nose says it reminds of cotton candy, something soft and squishy, almost gourmand. The floral note is present, but not strong, it comes out in the drydown and it doesn't make it a feminine scent, but it takes closer to baby powder. A little too sweet for me, but I like this interpretation of the amber, slightly powdery, with this citrusy opening and a cozier evolution.

La Liturgie des Heures
It is a great perfume. Straight forward with its smoky cypress personality. It does remind of church, but somehow differently from Cardinal by Heeley and Avignon by CdG. It is vibrant like Casbah by Piguet, but with a nice refreshing, balsamic, cypress opening that slowly fades in with incense and resins. A Mass in a cypress forest on the mountains that slowly heads the church. I find it masculine, mysterious and sexy. Love it!

L'Arbre de la Connaissance
I am not a fan of fig. Said that, this perfume is a blast of fig and fig leaves: the opening is a bit citrusy and slightly milky. Fruity and green with woody accents that become more stable and present in the drydown. It reminds me of a frozen fig smoothie on a beach in the summer in Italy drunk under a fig tree. A moment of relax and freshness in the shadow after being in the sun for hours. It is 2-3pm. The sun is really hot out there and you enjoy your cold drink while looking at the beach. 

L'Enfant Terrible

Private Label
This is a rough. If someone would like to know how vetiver essencial oil smells like, should have a sniff to this. The opening is really dark, woody and leathery, I first thought it had peaty whisky notes: it definitely reminded me of that. This is a really hard to wear perfume, but it could fit perfectly on a Tom Ford man, or it could be part of the Private Blend by Tom Ford. Really nice. This is one to try on skin: love it or hate it. 

Sorry, not for this one. The opening is really sweet vanilla and patchouli. I think the rose and some other flowery notes remind me of bubble gum in this perfume, but with a intense woody verve. The musk takes over really quickly and the sweetness slowly fades into something more ambery. I find it really sweet for me.

Rouge Assasin
Love this one! The opening is a thick line of red-pinkish lipstick over a letter, which suddenly blooms into a wonderful iris uplifted by a rice and musk that give that skin like smell to it. There are hints of bergamot, rose, and geranium, but the total image that this perfume gives is just stunning. I like how the iris is used: feminine, elegant and fresh. It is not buttery, but straight forward. Wow. This is meant to be for women, but I would definitely wear it. No doubts!

Les Jeux sont Faits
Last but not the least, this perfume goes absolutely to the podium. This perfume is supermasculine and alcoholic: a mix of rum, tobacco, gin, angelica and resins. I would dare say this is a MEN ONLY private smoky club. Dorothée Piot gave birth to Francois Hénin's wish of a perfume in honor of the men of the '60: a mix of a box fight, a movie theatre, a casinò and a private club. This is it. I couldn't describe it better. I like the fact that it does take inspiration from the past, but it doesn't smell vintage. I would totally wear it and suggest it. A contemporary movie of the past. Great.

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