Friday, October 12, 2012

Nu_be: the discovery of the cosmic scents

We are already familiar with Nu_be, which I met at Pitti Fragranze and wrote about right after the fair (read article here). They will be soon on the market and for all updates it is better to follow their facebook (or this blog)! A primordial explosion where the elements start joining together in a silent ballet:''This contemporary big bang release hydrogen, helium, lithium, and then the elements that generate life carbon and oxygen: fragrances that come from far away.''  I thank Nu_be for sending me a discovery kit: The samples have arrived today and I can't wait to share my personal impressions trying them on my skin
As the nose Antoine Lie's said: "Hydrogen to me is the element of energy; that’s why my fragrance is so sparkling.'' As the beginning of the ''Creation'' this jus is a mix of woods, flowers, fruits, green notes and watery notes. I remembered it crisp and clear, but on the skin it smells smooth, but refreshing. Fruity, sparkling and luminous at the beginning, the dry down feels woody sweet and fresh-spiced. An ''intangible purity'': right here we find the place where everything had started and nature starts showing all its creations. Antoine Lie's signature is clear: a complex jus, not for all.
This is a great discovery. As I wrote before ''Helium, the calm after the storm: the fumes and dust are a state of spiritual calm in the cosmic space.'' This scent is really narrative to me and meditative. It feels like being with closed eyes and travel through temples around the world: a contemporary (maybe digital?) travel around ancient mystic smoky places. The opening is a refreshing spice explosion of cinnamon and bergamot, just before the quiet travel: looks through the smoke into far worlds. Balsamic notes surrounded my a mix of patchouli, clary sage, tobacco leaves and guaiac wood that create a narghile accord.
Tender and gentle, with a balsamic spirit. When the spices are gone, it turns out really fresh still pure.  It feels feminine to me, but the smoky verve could easily fit of a man: the  fresh balsamic base makes it really lovable for both.
This has the ''OMG factor''. Nicolas Bonneville has interpreted the lightest metal inspired by its duality and contrast: ''I’ve tried to olfactively represent it in a scent recalling the antitheses, enhancing energy and consistency, lightness and subtleness.''
And I can totally smell the flint, the heat after the first sparks. Very strong metallic and spicy at the very beginning, it turns into a very soft gentle mysterious musky woody floral with hints of rose, iris and saffron. I absolutely love it on my skin, not as sharp as I remembered, but definitely a statement. Cold and warm at the same time, floral and spicy with the elegance of saffron makes it a beautiful scent for both sex. Long lasting with a good sillage. Exciting and contemporary. Love it!
Françoise Caron takes the challenge to represent the beginning of life on earth. I find it really earthy and herbal at the very beginning: I picture myself searching in a wet bush in the middle of the forest the earth underneath. More than the first cells, this brings me to the first humans. The opening is gingery and green, then fresh and spicy, with a mysterious dry down of spices and creamy notes. This scent is luxurious: the herbs and the resins  together with iris create a combination of seductive elegancy.
Antoine Lie surprises me, in a really good way, when he gets to this oxygenated wood fragrance. I already said much in the previous article, but it deserves more. Lie sais: ''Steamy and refreshing at the same time, more complex than oxygen itself.
And there it is, a scent you cannot catch neither capture, but that is in the air, all around you.'' I totally agree with this description. This is not just oxygen, it is a scent spread in the air: a needed breath, a lung opening fragrance. This is one of those perfumes that don't really need to list its notes because it is just so emotionally powerful, that it has to be smelled to understand it. A breath of aldehydes and woods at the very beginning that slowly fade into a clean earthy fresh spicy scent. This is just so pure and evoking that I would wear it every day. Not very long lasting, but just so great that I wouldn't mind spraying it during the day. I think this goes beyond love, it's a natural need: it's oxygen. 

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