Sunday, September 23, 2012

Laboratorio Olfattivo @ White fair

Today I had a great encounter with Roberto and his wife, founders of Laboratorio Olfattivo, at the White fair in Milan. This brand of artistic perfumery is young and still driven by the passion and the constant inspirations of this great couple. Each perfume has a story, usually a travel, which is described by the couple to the noses who send in different interpretations of the brief. No marketing affects this choice, which is, and must be, the most authentic representation of their stories, ideas and thoughts. Because of this, a perfume can take a long time to be developed and shown to the market: Rosamunda, their last creation by the nose Marie Duchêne, took two years and a half from briefing to presentation to the public. For this perfume they wanted to use the absolute of turkish rose, the essence of bulgarian rose, saffron and oud: a complex mix, that couldn't find its harmony, until they found the perfect oud essence. Elegant in the sun and passionate at dusk. The classic rose's scent merges with patchouli into a contemporary mix is surrounded by an aphrodisiac mix of gilded spices, ancient woods and animalic notes. This is a great feminine composition: a contemporary interpretation of the classic rose. The name Rosamunda came instinctively. The perfume Cozumel takes its name from the mexican island in front of Cancun: a mix of indian hemp and tobacco smelled on the beach and aromatic notes from the close forest. Alkemi takes its name from Egypt, which was called Alchemet in the ancient Egypt that means dark land: the color of the sole after the overflow of the Nile river. Décou-vert, means 'green discovery': they were working on a mix of green note, musks and flowers and the discover was a beautiful watery note. The image is really fascinating: coming out of the forest surrounded by lilies of the valley and discover a house in the middle of a garden in full blossom and, not too far a small river that flows just around the house. Finally (for today), Nirmal, which means pure in indian and they were looking for a name that would recall purity and whiteness. I got a sample of this perfume and I love it on my skin: delicate and lovely. An iris, violet composition with cider wood, amber, daim accord and a top note of carrot. It feels really warm and cozy, a soft white clean blanket that covers your leg when you wake up in a warm day in spring, with the window open in front of a beautiful garden with the first violets and iris. This is great choice (other than me) for those that want to smell clean and nice with a perfume which is not light, but actually with a nice sillage. 

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